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TBS NASSAU POST. F E P ^ P V 1* N. Y., FPiDAY, JULY 5, 191R Pare 0 OYP8Y GIRDLE GROWS INTO A BODICE; MEDICI COLLAR ARRIVES. The girdle le shewn In this afternoon frock of blue taffeta and allk voile. The bodice le slipped over the head and ends at each hip w ith a stream er. The voile le embroidered In eoutache. The Medici collar le of em broidered net on thle gown of net, which le worn over a black satin ! slip. The medieval chemisette le offset by a black velvet Jacket, which fastens In front with a taeeel. QUALITY, STYLE, TIMELY QUESTION i! . ———— — _ __ Dlscussion of Apparel Uppermost Topic of Women Wherever They Foregather. CAN DISCARD CHEAP GOWNS little for quality or workmanahlp and spend all on style. It la for thla rea son that America presents the moat brilliant and dashing conglomeration of young women In the world. The shops cater to thla Immense crowd, which prefers five cheap gowns that are smart to one admirable gown that la conservative. - ----------- ——■— It looks now as though American women are to be divided Into two camps—those who put nil their money Into one conservative, well-built gown that must last, and those who now and then buy frocks that are chic and that Incorporate the new fashion fea tures. Height* to Which Cheap Clothes Aspire. America learned a good trick.'from Paris when she arranged to have the best models instantly copied in chehp materials, and sometimes slipshod workmanship, to be sold at small prices. | It Is this trick over here, however, I that Is the despair of the high-priced i dressmakers and the delight of the ; shops that sell cheap clothes, i The dressmakers rest their Increas- Ing optimism concerning high-priced | clothes—an optimism based on the fact that the dressmaking business Better Made Garment* Advocated by Some and a Battle le On Among the Makers of Clothes—Varie ty Desirable. !New York.—One of the several dis cussions which have been thrown Into the modern hour—which breeds dis cussions as a field does mushrooms— Is whether it Is better for a woman to look for quality or for style In her clothes, notes a leading fashion correspondent. The argumentative and problemati cal side of the clothes Is by no means l““l ure»u,«uiie uu-,™™, a small Issue In the work of winning K88 suffered since the w m - o n the the war. No woman has a soul so *de“ W°“ ! ? WlU need 10 dead that she does not want to con-! be fitted f o r good gowns. T he average centrate her efforts In the right dlrec-1 ®gur,e C8“ buy the cheaP ^ wn: b\ tlon, and to bring to all the m inor1 Z V phases of life, which she may have beC8U8e “ d“es noJ flt h®r‘ ®nd ^ heretofore waved away with a care-1 7 0 8 , “ th a t T ™ less gesture the deep thought and | ^ such T g t w n VeD hlgh^ efficiency which the hour de-j However, t^ e must say this In Once upon a time the talk of clothes |ore^ f t0-W^ar eol-k? ond^ c o lo^^'^Thl^“was^’enoue^h' mo8t exceptionally good lines that do not surpass, ana and the dressmakers a lively time. But we have gone upward—or down- w a rd| whichever one wishes to call It S-Tnfl scries ZT~ splrala to another stratum of air. We are Intent upon the discussion of what Is good or bud, what Is cheap and nasty as op posed to what Is cheap and worthy In woman’s apparel. Intelligent women, and otherwise, find that the gauntlet of argument thrown Into the arena is Instantly snatched up by everyone who has a voice, and the problemat ical side of war-time appareling makes an enlivening discussion that puts scandal, society und love affairs In the background. Controversy Between Quality, Style. This problem, which has been pre sented to every woman during the last six months, as to whether site should buy a gown which lasts and pay u big price for It, or buy one which she may discard soon, and at a much low e r price, Is of high interest. It Is settled by the Individual and yet It Is Important to the mass. There Is an advocate for each side In every crowd that foregathers to discuss the problem; and, more to the purpose, there ure many advocates fo r each side In the commercial aPorld. The people who do exquisite work ere loud In their claims that It Is bet te r to pay a high price for material and workmanship, that will last as long us economy demands, than to pay a fifth of that price for a ready-to- w e a r gown that will fall apart after a few months' service. Opposing thla argument, and coe- ductlng a brilliant and usually suc cessful offensive, la another line, made up of thoae who insist that In a day like this women prefer style to qual ity and workmanship; that they weald rather pay somewhere in the neigh borhood of $30 for a ready-to-wear fYock that Incorporate* the newest fashion features and gives one a eroert l<$Bk, even If It has to be thrown away before long. It has alwaye been the method el $|be semen na a whs ertebee te dtem Cnahtansbiy, le ca ie bes fayette DAY Of WAISTCOAT Paris Sketches Predict Advance of the Long Garment. Promisee to Be Dominant Feature of New Autumn Cloth** Which Will Be Introduced In August. Last January, the women In Part* wore wnlntcoat* of fnr, velvet, knitted wool and dyed homenpun that reached from the collar bone to the knees. The heads of dressmaking houses, who are carefully watched wherever they go, contributed to the fashion fo r these accessories by placing them In their own suite. America Introduced few of them, end she did not find even the short waistcoat of Inst February, a success, declares a writer on fashion topics. It was worn by a few segments of sm a rt women, fashionable and unfash ionable, rich and poor, but the long waistcoat was treated as an outcast. I t was not even recognized. But France persisted and the dressmakers In New York are putting It Into suits and frocks for summer resorts. The prophecy runs that It will be a domi nant feature of new autumn clothes. In a large bunch of Paris photo graphs that have come over, this long waistcoat Is repeated In many fabrics on women who are snapped as they go about their new and active life. The sketches that come over from the big designers as heralds of what will be advanced In August, show the long walstcoot also. It Is made In a differ ent color from the gown; It le used for protection or for beauty, and al though It Is probably taken from the reign of Louis XIV, It has none of the elegance or Jauntiness of Its prede cessor. It merely looks warm and comfortable, or gay and colorful. It Is the longest waistcoat that has ever been worn by woman. It was matched In length by those worn at the court of the Grand Monarque. Looking at It In Its most essential fea ture, It Is merely another way to straighten the figure. It, therefore, can be adopted by those to whom mid dle age has brought an undesired ro tundity. DARK BLUE HELMET TURBAN lee Tome 2 times do not equal, the Amerlcaq cut- tors, who work by the hundreds on gowns that are sold by the thousands. We must have an exceedingly good national figure. That Is the comment of the forvigners who see our women In the rendy-to-wear, qulck-to-buy, smart-to-look-ut, cheap gowns that are sold In every city on this con tinent. Watch for Medici Collar. Two women have worn French gowns with high, wired, outstanding, Medici collars of luce and tulle. Don’t j let this fact slip your memory for an Instant, If you are vitally Interested In I the new things that come up sudden ly over the horizon and promise many followers. The Medici collar Is a symbol of the history of human nature pressed Into a few short, mad years of French life. It represents what tBe Three Feathers of Great Britain represent. It Is more than a fashion; It Is the symbol of a dynasty. Now and then, It has flickered In and out of fashion. It was taken up by other queens beside Catherine and I Mary; It was worn by debutantes on | stately gowns with trains a quarter of a century a g o ; it bus been maintained In a measure In half the courts of Europe, and It may be revived thla summer. It was made of point lace, wired to it* extremeat points and worn with a black satin dinner gown that was guiltless of all trimming and received Its high light from a string of pearl*. It was also worn In e black embroid ered net gown dropped over black eatln, with a curious little Jacket of black velvet fastened In front, below the hlp-Une, with a glittering tassel. There are one-piece frocks creep ing Into the fashions that show the Medici collar of double tulle, hem stitched at the edge, and there are eoft voile gowns over colored taffeta that have upstanding neck ruflaa of white chiffon that are deftly, and cnralsaaly Meld up by wlwe, Charming enough would be thle dainty helmet turban alone, but Ita designer* were not satisfied, so they added the charming summer veil. The hat le dark blue, covered with a m ulti tude of summer flower*. The same flpwer nwtlf la carried out In the dark blue veTT i A**m* ■• 5 u RIBBON FOR DRESS TRIMMING Many Beautiful Designs Being Effec tively Used; Never More Beau tiful Than Thle Year. Ribbon plays an important part In dress trimmings, accessories, etc., and never have they been more beautiful than they are this year. Many are Interwoven with gold and silver and some are formed almost entirely of dull gold or silver tissue. There are ribbons of satin with p ais ley spots In old-fashioned tints, and pale taffeta ribbons In rose, mauve and nattier blue, over which are sprinkled at Intervals “lucky\ lady birds brocaded in dull gold or sli ver. Striped or checked faille ribbons are extremely fashionable, and among the novelties are ribbons with long weaved fringe at the ends. Various are the ways In which these ribbons are utilized for frock trim mings. They are Introduced In the form of Inset bands, plaited, shirred or plain, and sometimes as trillings or ruchinga. Hate Off for Hair. Keep your hat off as much as pos sible. Hair cannot lie too easily .or loosely for Its own health, and that of the nerves and head. Anything like pressure, heat or strain about the h ead will Injure the brain and the finest p a r ts of the nervous system. Pulling the hair up too tightly from the back of the head and ears will cause the glands of the neck to swell. Notice what a relief It le to take all your h a ir pin* out of the hair and let It bang looee for a few hour*. -X If you adopt an easy, artistic and natural hair dr casing, nervous 11 see will dlseppear and headaches will be un known. It Is sot only beneficial to the, growth of Ik* hair, but to the nsrvee of the heed be wear it bed with USE MADE OF FOOD CARTONS Ostmeal Centslners Easily Trans formed Into Attractive Scrap Bas kets for the Tabls. “Why In the world are yon tioover- tzlng *11 these oatmeal cnrtonaT I al- waya bum mine,\ said the vlaltor In astonlahment as her friend opened s cupboard and dlaclosed a shelf filled with a collection of oatmeal cartons, the ronnd kind. *1 will show yon,\ said her friend, leading the way Into the living room and taking an object from the table. \What do you think of that? I call It a table scrap banket.” \A table scrap basket I\ exclaimed the visitor. “What could be more uae- ful and what could be prettier 7 \ \You know,” explained her friend, ‘1 always save the odd lengths of wall paper left over. There le a box full In the etoreroom. One of these pieces of wall paper Is of a wonderful blue, the kind with green In It, a mat tint I took a carton, cat and fitted the blue paper to It and pasted It on. Then there was another end of wall paper left over from the dining room frieze. It was a French paper showing a riot of gaily colored birds In a Jungle of leaves and flowers. From this paper a rich blue parakeet, balancing on a red stem, was cut and pasted on the darker blue background, taking care to paste It over the seam where the paper on the carton le Joined together. “Then the edges, top and bottom, were bound with furniture gulmpe which matches the blue paper. For handles I took two large rings such as are used for curtain - pulls, covered them with buttonhole stitching In black and hung them on either side of the carton, forming little drop handles. The bottom and Inside of the carton were dyed a deep red, harmonizing with the touches of red In the para keet. Other cartons were covered with a light yellow paper and mounted with brown and yellow birds with gulmpe to match and black handles. “My table scrap baskets, I find, make useful and much-appreciated gifts. And that Is why I am Hooverlzlng the oat meal cartons.” CE SPORT FROCK Sleeveless Jacket May Be S epa rate Coat or Part of D ress. F e r Summer W ear, Wool Jeroey Cloth, Velveteen or Light Weight Velours le Suitable. The sleeveless Jacket ahown hi the sketch may either be a separate coet, as eo many of them are, or It mny be made to form part of the dress with which It le worn. If meant as a sep arate summer sport Jacket, wool Jer sey cloth, velveteen or lightweight velours may be selected for I t It may •be made a part of the dress, of which It le an accompaniment, by using a checked gingham or voile for the ma jo r portions of the garment and mak ing Jacket and cuffs of plain color lin en or crash. As here shown, the dress !s*e very simple, plain affair, waist and skirt being Joined by an Inch-and- a-half or two-inch wide plain belt at the normal waistline. With the addition of the sleeveless Jacket, however, the garment be- SAND PILE KEEPS TOTS BUSY Affords One of the Greatest Amuse ment for Youngsters—Can Model Clay Designs. What else Is there with which little children’s hands can be kept more sat isfactorily occupied than sand? Just turn the children loose In n pile or table of sand, with a spoon, a pall, a cup or anything with which they can dig or shovel. You do not like sand In the house? If you have a suitable place for It, It need not make any trouble. An old kitchen table turned upside down, with the legs cut short and put on the other side, makes a good table for sand. A piece of burlap or denim placed under the table keeps the sand from being scattered over the house. With clay, a simple little cradle may be made. The child first rolls a piece Into a ball, cuts It In half with a string. One of these halves forms the lower part of the cradle. The other he cuts In two, using one piece for the top and remodeling the other Into a “ball for baby.” Birds’ nests with eggs c an be made with clay; also apples, oranges, cups and saucers, and even animals may be attempted. VOILE AND ORGANDIE FROCK m f % M m -4 } S; ft -r v I - , l 1 8 I S - Y f I ; ' . : ' \ f f M /M X #\> Of the many varietiea l* summer freeks this ef voile eUwfie eut as e pleasing and attractive drees. The frilled organdie breaks the leag skirt Has, end Is w a d fer oellsre, cuffs end belt ReveM eg Trey, Tbs revolving breakfast tray le e comfort which Amortcse women would de well to Bummer Sport Dress With Sleeveless Jacket comes a very chick sport frock. The little coat is cut quite plain In front, and the back Is centered by a wide plain panel. The belt la set under this back panel, brought around to the front, crossed and then drawn to the back again, where It le looped to form a sort of sash. The collar ar rangement of this Jacket Is worth ob serving. It really distinguishes the entire garment. It does more than this, however; It bolds the Jacket, of which It la a part, properly In place, and gives the neck a trig, ship-shape look that Is not possible with the open type of Jacket A review of fall fabrics divulges the fact that plaids are to be very much in evidence next season, and the frock here shown might be very well devel oped In plaid worsted and plain color self fabric or velveteen, as a school frock for a girl of high school or col- legd Bge. However, fall Is some months dis tan t as yet, and for present wear the materials previously suggested, voile or gingham and plain color linen or crash, would be very smart and serv iceable. Nothing Out of Fashion Now. Can anyone tell exactly what, If any thing, Is out of fashion at the p resent moment? In times gone by materials, trimmings and one thing and another were laid away as out of fashion, and from time to time various articles were brought forth from old chests that had hardly seen daylight for almost a score of years. But If there is any one thing out of the mode Just now It fails to suggest Itself to our memory. Bead bags, although In use for some time, are quite as good as ever, but are too expensive to ever become overpop- ular, and now come some of the exquisitely embroidered bags quaint and beautiful. On frocks we see quilt ing and tiny quilted edges. Cording and any other form of decoration known to our grandmothers baa been called into service, the corners of the earth have been searched for inspiration and apparently nothing has been left which can be produced as even a re vived novelty. Cameo Efleets In Cotton. Cameo effects (tw o shades of a given color) are very much the thing In printed dress cotton thle year. Usually the printing la la lighter tone on • darker ground, giving the cameo seggaadon, but the patterns may be In scroll or stripe effect, not suggestive ef cameos—as one ordinarily under stands the term. Th* printed cotton foulards la these cameo effect* s i c ijMSlna aad will make nn 11 1 m ■ (rocka far w a rm TIME SHOULD BE CONSERVED Deed W ay le te Werk en Schedule^' Doing the Tasks ef the Day by Cerd System. To do your vnrlou* hnusewlfelfl tasks—whether that Ineludea working your own vacuum cleaner, making your own war bread end tending your own hnby, or elmpty the more com plicated task of directing ten aervant* —In any way but on a schedule—le 'a luxury and nn extravagance, declares a student of home economics. Yon may like to do It without putting the work on a systematic bnnla. You may be too temperamental or too Indolent to feel Inclined to follow a schedule| but not to do ao means to waste time, your own and other people’s, and that Is Just what neither you nor anyoew else has any right to do during these war days. The housewife has her task of con serving food supervised and directed by the food administration, and she entrusts the task of providing her with enough coal to the fuel adminis tration. The department of labor takes It upon Itself to conserve Infant life and through widespread educa tional work to cut down Infant and child mortality. Trees are conserved and wheat Is conserved and tin le conserved. Doesn’t It seem as If there ought to be a time con server? Time thle summer le as precious ae these other things we have been con serving. Without making the best nee of our tim e we shall not have time to roll surgical dressings of which the Red Cross le In such dire need. Yon could not tend your w a r garden or do any of the dozen other extra dutlee you have taken upon yourself to do. Really every woman muet be a time conservation department unto herself. The beet way to make the beet of your time Is to work on a schedule and to make a wise schedule for all the people who work under your di rection. Such a schedule le easily kept If you write down each day's required tasks on a plain card. The seven cards van be fastened together and hung up In a convenient place, the cards to be turned back to the right placf as the days go by ae a constant reminder. FAVORITE MONTH FOR BRIDES June Destined to Hold the Place Dear to the Heart of the Wlfe-to-Be— Brldsl Gowns. June has many glories, but no one that rivals Its favor as a bridal month. That war should give Its ro mance an added thrill may well In vest Its flowered splendor with a new significance dear to sentiment and vi tal to promoters of the picturesque. The bride has the center of the stage, particularly when she has a soldier beside her. His raiment Is fixed by code. H e r’s has more latitude, yet fashion arrogantly prescribes methods for her also. Yells have their own vagaries, nt the brow and in their length. Yet types are close, as every woman knows, to a prevailing Ideal, as for example, In the persistent' shortness of skirts no m a tter whether the veil be long or short. The result Is to recall the quaint days of Wat teau, when slippers played so pretty a part In the pictorial scheme of things. Eyes and smiles, It may be remarked, are still In fashion 1 IB HANDY FOR SUMMER WEAR -I ffi? :y j iX • |i v*, L !■ Rather dletlnetive beeide* ytlMUrtfie le thle Handy ellp-en sweeter. M M made ef eilk braid that le light eeeuflb fer th# hetteet weather. Gingham Silks. Bees use good glnghsew have goaft up la price, end because the cheap* 1 ginghams e r e eel dart re bU. cue* bar and plaid voiles ere tables e
